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6 REASONS DUNWICH IS A MUST-VISIT FOR HISTORY BUFFS
Unveiling the Lost Medieval Town of Dunwich: A Historical Adventure with a Touch of Mystery
1. The Dunwich Museum: A Treasure Trove of Local History
No visit to Dunwich is complete without exploring the free Dunwich Museum. The museum is free, with donations appreciated to support its upkeep. Here, delve into the town’s fascinating past through exhibits and historical artifacts, and gather insights into Dunwich’s intriguing story before you explore the town!
Museums not your thing? No worries! Read on for a small snippet of Dunwich’s history to fuel your independent exploration, or scroll on to the second reason to visit Dunwich.
Brief History of Dunwich, Suffolk: A Town Claimed by the Sea
Dunwich boasts a dramatic history, rising from a small settlement to a thriving port and ultimately succumbing to the relentless power of the sea.
Early Signs of Settlement (Roman Era – 10th Century): There is evidence to suggest a Roman fort and a Saxon settlement existed in Dunwich before the 10th century.
Thriving Medieval Port (10th-14th Centuries): By the 10th century, Dunwich had developed into a major port town, rivaling even London in size. The Domesday Book (1086) documented a population of approximately 3,000, with flourishing trade, shipbuilding, and religious institutions.
Receding Coastline (11th Century Onwards): Even during its height, the sea began to erode Dunwich’s coastline. The Domesday Book itself already noted land loss.
Devastation and Decline (Late 13th Century): A series of powerful storms in the late 13th century, particularly in 1286 and 1287, dealt a heavy blow to the town. These storms caused significant damage, silted up the harbor, and claimed vast stretches of land. This marked a major turning point for Dunwich.
Fading Town (14th Century Onwards): While the town continued to function for centuries after, it never fully recovered. Erosion continued to be a constant threat, gradually shrinking Dunwich to the small village it is today.
- A Shrunken Population (21st Century): The 2021 census records a population of just 202, a consequence of the reducing coastline.
A Map of Dunwich Memories: Visualising the Lost
The museum’s collection includes fascinating maps and models that pinpoint the locations of the once-grand Greyfriars Monastery, All Saints Church, and many other points of interest. While some of these structures still stand proudly, a stark reminder of the town’s former glory, others have been tragically claimed by the ever-encroaching sea.
Following the DUNWICH Trail to History
From the museum, head past The Ship at Dunwich pub and follow the public footpath at “Bridge Gate” towards the cliff. The path splits into two: take your pick! The upper path leads to an observation platform boasting breathtaking sea views. The lower path winds past houses, eventually rejoining the upper path and revealing the imposing Greyfriars Monastery on your right.
We opted for the lower path on a recent visit, even though the weather wasn’t ideal. Armed with warm clothes and an umbrella (which came in handy!), we enjoyed the chance to explore Dunwich. A pair of robins flitted along the undergrowth, and despite the rain, we even spotted some colorful flowers peeking through the greenery. It’s a reminder that there’s beauty to be found even on a gloomy day!
2. The Enigmatic “Last Grave”
Before reaching the monastery entrance, a short path leads to a glimpse of the “Last Grave,” shrouded in local lore. The inscription, weathered but still readable, reads: “In Memory of JACOB FORSTER who departed this Life March 12th 1796 Aged 38 Years.” This solitary gravestone stands as the sole survivor of All Saints Church, which once stood approximately 40 meters from this point.
The relentless power of the sea claimed the church itself, leaving only this poignant reminder. All Saints Church wasn’t entirely lost, however. One remaining buttress from the church was carefully removed and relocated to the safer grounds of St. James’ churchyard, a testament to the ongoing efforts to preserve Dunwich’s fading history.
3. Greyfriars Monastery: A Glimpse into the Past
As you continue along the path, keeping the sea on your left, you’ll soon reach the imposing ruins of Greyfriars Monastery. Established by Franciscan monks in the 1250s, the eroding coastline claimed the structure in 1286, forcing the friars to relocate inland to the site we see today. The remaining sections of the monastery, once part of a bustling complex, offers a glimpse into its former glory.
The information boards provide historical context, but the true intrigue lies in imagining the warden’s house, guest accommodation, the vast friary church (the biggest building of them all!), chapter house, and infirmary that once stood alongside it.
A Spark of Imagination
Abandoned buildings hold a magnetic charm, igniting curiosity and inspiring the imagination to reconstruct their past lives. The archway beckons exploration, a gateway to a bygone era.
Preserving the Past, Brick by Brick
The monastery’s facade showcases eight arched windows and a single doorway, marked by preservation efforts. Signs of repair, including metal frames and red brick patching, highlight the importance of safeguarding this historical treasure.
A Patchwork Through Time
A closer look reveals the fascinating patchwork of stones and bricks used in the construction, with hints of additions and changes made over time. This resourceful approach stands in stark contrast to modern uniformity, where bricks are meticulously matched in size and colour.
Nature Reclaiming its Land
Despite maintenance efforts, nature perseveres. Plants cling to the uneven surfaces, and ivy creeps upwards, a constant reminder of the enduring power of the natural world.
The Watchful Figurehead
High above the middle left window, a weathered figurehead peeks through, hinting at a human or animal form, a silent guardian of the priory.
The Iconic Gateway View
The view of the priory through the arched gateway is undeniably the most photographed perspective, and for good reason. It encapsulates the essence of the remains of Greyfriars Monastery!
4. A Hidden Gem: The Brick FOOTBridge
Returning to the entrance nearest the cliff, venture further into the woods to continue the path to discover a charming little brick footbridge with an archway. Its history and purpose remain shrouded in mystery, adding to the allure of Dunwich.
The Enduring Strength of Archways
The bridge’s archway exemplifies the enduring strength and ingenuity of this architectural marvel. A simple yet effective design that has withstood the test of time. The lack of historical records only adds to its mystique. Do you have any information about this bridge? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
5. THE SHIP AT DUNWICH: A Culinary Interlude and a Glimpse of the PasT
After exploring the bridge, head back for a well-deserved lunch at The Ship at Dunwich (also known as The Ship Inn) pub. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can continue the path beyond the footbridge. This section loops around Monastery Hill, passing the Greyfriar Monastery gateway. However, be aware there is no designated footpath, so proceed with caution and watch for vehicle traffic. Alternatively, return along the path you come.
While enjoying your meal, keep an eye out for the photo on the wall showcasing the erosion of All Saints Church. As expected for a Grade 2 listed building built in the 18th century, it retains its character despite a modern refurbishment.
THE SHIP AT DUNWICH – GOOD TO KNOW
- Kitchen opening hours:
- Monday – Sunday
- Breakfast 8am – 9:30am
- All day dining 12pm – 8:30pm
- Dog friendly, with a dog menu
- Cosy atmosphere
- Relaxed, laid back and informal
- Serves old school, coastal favourites and seasonal dishes inspired by local produce.
6. ST JAMES’ CHURCH: A Survivor’s Tale – The Last Standing Buttress
The final stop on your journey is the last remaining buttress of All Saints Church, which you can either walk to the site or park in the designated spot opposite the church on Westerton Road.
The buttress was moved to St James’ church-yard in 1923 and a poignant reminder of the church’s lost grandeur. The intricate details on the stonework offer a glimpse of the church’s former beauty.
6 REASONS TO VISIT DUNWICH: Conclusion
Whether you’re a history buff, a nature lover, or simply seeking a unique coastal escape, Dunwich has something to offer everyone. As you walk through its ruins and explore its hidden corners, allow yourself to be transported back in time and imagine the bustling town that once thrived on these shores.
So why wait? Start planning your Dunwich adventure today!
Planning Your Visit TO DUNWICH
Parking:
- Dunwich Beach Car Park: Dunwich, Saxmundham IP17 3EN (donations to local charities encouraged)
- Street parking along St James’ Street near the pub and museum (free)
Public Toilets:
- Located next to Flora Tea Rooms near the car park.
WANT TO LEARN MORE ABOUT DUNWICH?
This BBC News article Dunwich: The Storms That Destroyed ‘Lost Town’ discusses the archaeological discoveries made at Dunwich. Researchers used ultrasound technology to image ruins of buildings and shipwrecks hidden beneath the seabed, and the article makes for an interesting read.
recommendation:
Do you have a trip planned to Sydney? Hop over to my Sydney Street Art Scene blog to discover amazing murals, including a map to help you navigate.
REFERENCE LIST:
- Flickering Lamps (2016) The last ruins of Dunwich, Suffolk’s lost medieval town [accessed April 2024]
- Dunwich Museum (n.d.) The Dunwich Trail [accessed April 2024]
- Wikipedia (2024) Dunwich [accessed April 2024]
- City Population (2021) Dunwich population census [accessed April 2024]
- Campaign for Real Ale (n.d.) Photo of Ship at Dunwich pub [accessed April 2024]
